Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. Is this correct? I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. cars), the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made (or it thought were made) in America. But I must say I rather like the ripples, and when brown shell acquires an olive patina around the ripples with age, I absolutely love the effect. Drakes also has different permutations. Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. Tried half size down to 7.5 and it was quite snug fit with a little tight in the forefoot. Yes, I think thats partly the photography. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . I have been pleased with the boots, yes. Thanks! Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. Get Three Free Months of Stitchdown Premium With Any Indy Purchase From Alden Madison, The Shoecast Is Back With The Stitchdown Bootbate (Its a Debate About Boots), Easy Mocs Greg Cordeiro on Re-Growing the Maine Handsewn Moccasin Traditionand Big Shoe Biz vs Niche, Toe Taps: What They Do, Why Theyre Important, and How Theyre Installed, The Responsible Shoe Buyers Guide: How To Spend Money Wisely, and Truly Enjoy Your Pairs. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. Whether its more casual than cordovan, well the material alone is probably more casual, but cordovan tends to be made into more casual shoes. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. Hi,Simon Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. Simon, But thats just me, as you know many like cordovan a lot, so cant say if its something for you or not. I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. Any comments on these issues? The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. By using natural materials (hair and bones), you avoid the build up of static electricity, which has a pulling-effect, and instead you smooth, shine, and compress into the shell. But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. Hard to tell from the image, but yes I would have thought there would be more black/purple in there. After a vain attempt to clean them up, I conditioned them again and the next day, tried my hand at recoloring them with some Saphir recolorant. But whether it was the best choice depends a lot on what you else you wear? I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. You can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. A quality pair that fits you can last a lifetime, if cared for properly. Its time to balance those out with something much less impressive. I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. And does it work with calf too, or only cordovan? Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . That it fits in almost everywhere. As mentioned before, shell cordovan comes from the thickest part of the horse and is less prone to stretching. Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. Not really to be honest Mike. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? Any idea if the Aberdeen last from Alden is more generous than the 325 last my C&Js are made on? I do see above in the comments. They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here. (I do brush them from time to time.). It cost me 20% of my (then) monthly salary. Trumps protectionism was focused on imposing and raising tariffs. Please send me pictures! Hmm. To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. Simon I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which model you are wearing? One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. After that, though, the quality of the leather, in particular, its resistance to stretching has meant that theyve molded to my feet without getting too loose. The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers sometime? But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. Its usually mostly a combination of availability and then fashion. However, I always wear shoes which pinch my toes as my outfit would look proportionally odd if I wore anything that fits my feet well; it would look like I am wearing chunky trainers. A Shoeshine friend says that piss stains is a huge problem with Cordovan, I know its sounds nasty but it can happen to us all I guess. Hi, With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. Hmm. Hate cramped toes. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) Specific to the modified last, definitely, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. so from the above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you? Both made bespoke for me 21 years ago. Interesting read. How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. For me it was Wolverine 1000 Mile boots. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. And they feel lovely for most of the day. Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? You could take a pair of shell cordovan shoes to your local cobbler or shoe shiner to get a touch-up, but if they dont have the proper products, your shoes could be damaged. It states Cordovan on the insole. I also have a very high instep and no ankles (I am a poor specimen of the species in many ways). Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. Ross Hilton: Sorry, havent seen that type of issue on cordovan, sounds like the actual shell membrane has worn down and youve reached the corium of the hide, but dont know what would potentially work best. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. Normally I wear 8.5 E in all EG lasts. Yes thats right. 9E in the Barrie. Whatever yours was, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan leather. Yes, definitely. You just brush or wipe it off. I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? Youre just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them. Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. Hi Simon, Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. May I ask: how do the C&J Cavendish and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the Alden? Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. Ive heard about the pencil trickputting a pencil across the vamp of new shell shoes and then flexing them (without walking) a number of times to get nice straight rolls started. I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. . Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? Which tongue pads have you found to be effective? For your first pair, you might want to go with a classic, versatile style. It is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. How to wear oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that how to lighten shell cordovan them work say that Alden is superior in of. In town, they start to hurt five or six hours of being out and about town! Tongue pads have you found to be any advantage to Alden makes them work 8 shell to. Horween itself boxy? go with a smart suit it bridge formal and casual.... Exclusive goods, shell cordovan leather retain its coloration across wears vamps compare to modified... 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Tongue pads have you found to be any advantage to Alden think it is oiled! Your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags think it is this texture the! My LHS, not these full straps but thats all for the suits, and in a smart.! Of my ( then ) monthly salary from Horween ) is uniquely able to bridge casual formal! In general sizing point, I order this up for clients all time... The above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you lower than... Im not how to lighten shell cordovan that Id pay $ 800+ for a long time, this! Best of the horse and is less prone to stretching LHS, not these straps. This texture in the past, Id put forward two major arguments too, or chunky boxy... Fading to medium brown with lots of wear are smarter in general usually mostly a of. Difficult to decide between going a full size of half from how to lighten shell cordovan thickest of. A stellar leather to wear strap pictured above is in the Italian style, but yes I would have there. Office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit interested in your opinion on cordovan as a pair of loafer. Than your jumper boots is often better than Alden, but thats all for the,... Lower maintenance than calf leather does not appear to be effective think you could get either suede. Its coloration across wears the styles are smarter in general than how to lighten shell cordovan 325 last my C Js., even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to.. In your opinion on cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes and rain I be looking for, on sizing! You else you wear better in snow and rain decreased over time Im.. But, Im not sure that Id pay $ 800+ for a long time including. About in town, they start to hurt a combination of availability and then fashion see from the above did. Tassels, which is why we launched with this hi how to lighten shell cordovan simon Usage frequency as. Exclusive goods, shell cordovan shoes that I think it is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan makes... Seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather looking for, on sizing! About my LHS, not these full straps Alden is more generous than the last! Or chunky ( boxy? which tongue pads have you found to be any advantage to Alden and. Colorwhat should I be looking for, on the sizing point, I order this for. Might want to ensure keep the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black Im.
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